Come On Out!!

Hope to see everyone at K9s in the Vines this Sunday from 1-5pm at Linganore Winecellars!!!

Home Needed

These lovely ladies came to me because a woman's boyfriend was going to take them to the shelter.
They are very shy and very scared and do not like to be picked up, so their chances int he shelter would have been NIL. They have lived all their short lives in a basement without much human contact, but surprisingly are very friendly when they get to know you. They are litter trained, and spayed and have all their shots. They were even tested for FIV and FeLV, and are negative for both.
They need a happy indoor home where they can be loved. Please, if you or anyone knows of such a home, let me know ASAP.

Update on Charlie, the bloodhound

We have found Charlie a sanctuary that is a little closer to home. Greener Pasturse in PA.

The admission fee there is $3000 instead of $5000. We are still in need of $2000 of that fee.

 

If you can find it in your heart to donate even $1, we, and Charlie, would be so greatful.

Please visit www.awlfc.org to donate. Please reference CHARLIE so we know it's for him.

 

Thnak you so much!

Cold Weather Preparations

It is getting cooler and the leaves are starting to turn their lovely fall colors. Kids are back to school,
and grown-ups back to work, with little vacation in site. What does all this mean to a feral cat colony
care taker? It means clean up and winter prep.

It's time to empty out those shelters; removing all the old straw, washing and disinfecting them
if you can. Maybe laying down some flea repellent under new straw, (be careful to only put down
safe repellent as cats do burrow into the straw and stir it up) and removing bugs. Shelters are great for all kinds of insects and other critters. Stink bugs love them, but a cat doesn't love stink bugs. Your
ferals will not use your freshly made up house if it is harboring smelly bugs. Also, the stink bug smell just attracts more stink bugs, telling them there is a nice cozy place to hibernate for the winter.

You can get rid of the smell by first scrubbing thoroughly with a mixture of 1 qt of peroxide, 1/4c
of baking soda and 1 tsp of liquid ivory, then rinsing well. And to discourage stick bugs from re-
inhabiting, mints are a natural repellent. This includes catnip and cat mint, so have at it, grow it like gangbusters around your shelters, use it under straw or wherever you want!

If you have wood houses with home insulation you need to check that there are no holes,
all insulation needs to be safely tucked away from digging and burrowing cats.
If you use styrofoam as insullation, you'll want to be sure that there are no holes and shredded foam laying around, sometimes cats try to eat it, and that causes digestion problems and blockages. Straw
is a great natural insulator, so you can pack those walls up with it and not worry about what your
cats are digging into.

Once everything is clean it's time to pack with your new straw. Please, use only straw. It wicks away
moisture from cats when it's rainy or snowy. It does not mold or harbor bacteria that can lead to
URIs.  Do not be afraid to overstuff your shelter! The cats do burrow and create little sleeping areas deep down where it's warm.

Now that everything is ready in your shelters, it's time to start thinking of feeding and watering. Please do not use heated water dishes; cats can chewor scratch the wires, and they become brittle in
winter, causing shorts or electrical problems. You may need to go out and replenish water several
times on very cold winter days, but it's better than accidently electrocuting one of your babies. If you can find a bowl with a dark interior, it will retain more heat and keep the water from freezing
so quickly. As far as food goes, add 10-20% kitten kibble in with your regular food, it gives the cats some extra needed calories to stay warm during the cold winter months.

Remember to always care for your cats to the best of your ability. They count on you and in return
give you so much more!

Pure Breeds and Genetic Problems vs Robust Ferals

Purebred is a misnomer, if you're honest about it. There are so many different breeds
now that it can be quite difficult to tell one from another, unless there is a striking difference.
Breeding for specific color or feature is actually taking away a lot of genetic diversity, therefore
creating unforseen health problems. With every mating of two cats with certain traits, more genetic
information is lost, creating even more problems.

This is why a feral cat is healthier and genetically stronger than your purebred pet.
With all the diversity in a feral colony, you see the many colors, features and traits that you
have in the pure breeds.

I am working with a small colony right now that is mostly black cats, except for one that looks
just like a Tonkinese. In my colony, I have tuxedos, tabbies, long hair, short hair, solid black, and
gray kitties. I've seen a litter of Siamese kittens with 2 ornage and white siblings. The diversity is
what makes each cat a surprise, and I am the happier for them.

I am not saying purebred cats are not terrific pets, and I am not saying that people should not get one
if they want, but I will say this, if you are looking for a purebred breed, be aware of the genetic issues
your new pet will have. You can do a search online, or there is a great list on Blog About Cats. Also, and this is VERY important, please get one from a breed specific rescue. They will have kittens and adult cats. These cats are usually rescued from pet stores, backyard breeders and hoarders, and they make wonderful pets. As the saying goes...."don't breed or buy while other pets die".

emergency preparedness

Be Prepared for Disasters

Emergency situations like extreme weather and natural disasters can happen without warning. For the safety of your pets, feral cat colonies, and your family, and your own peace of mind, be prepared and establish a “disaster plan.”

As you plan, it’s important to remember that feral cats are resourceful. The outdoors is their home, so they know how to deal with weather. As we have experienced with our Boardwalk Cats Project in Atlantic City, animals often can sense when bad weather is coming and move to higher ground and safe places instinctually. However, there are still things you can do both ahead of time and during emergencies to help outdoor cats and your own pets:

Prepare

• Have descriptions of your pets and the cats in your colony, along with photos. If you need to look for displaced cats in shelters or other rescue areas, this will help accurately identify them. Make sure all pet tags and animal microchips have up-to-date information.
• Have a back-up caregiver who is responsible for the colony in your absence and network with other feral cat caregivers in your area to set up a ‘buddy system’ to create a safety net of care for the cats. You may be able to find other cat caregivers in your area through our Feral Friends Network.
• Make an emergency contact card for your pets and feral cat colonies in case you are not immediately available. Include all contact information for your substitute caregiver. Carry this card in your wallet and your car, give copies to your backup caregiver, and post it somewhere visible in your home like on the refrigerator.
• Make a list of local shelters and their contact information. You will need this information in case you need their help or resources.
• Keep an Emergency Supply Kit on hand and know where to find it quickly.

When harsh weather is forecast or predicted:

• If appropriate, turn all openings for feral cat shelters and feeding stations away from the storm surge or toward higher ground. If possible, move them to slightly higher, protected ground nearby.
• Fill multiple food and water bowls in case you have to evacuate and can't return immediately.
• In general, don’t want for evacuation orders to come before you leave the area.

If you do need to evacuate:

• Bring your pets with you, but do not try to trap and contain unsocialized feral cats.
• Have a safe place to go ahead of time. Evacuation and Red Cross shelters do not usually accept pets. Make a list of pet-friendly hotels outside the evacuation zone. La Quinta and Motel 6 are two consistently pet-friendly chains. Check with family and friends. And lastly, have a list of boarding facilities that may be available during an emergency.
• Bring your emergency supply kits, as well as additional provisions to provide the feral colony, upon your return.

After the disaster has passed and it is safe to return:

• Begin cleaning up the colony area to remove any potential hazards for the cats. Check feeding stations and outdoor shelters for damage.
• Look for the cats in your colony. If any are missing, immediately:
• Determine which agencies, if any, are on the ground in your area assisting animals. Contact those organizations directly and provide a description of the cats you are missing. Determine how you can claim these cats if they are found.
• Contact your local shelters. Ask if they are trapping cats in your area, and determine how long they will hold feral cats. Shelters may be experiencing a high volume of calls and influx of animals. For this reason, we advise that caregivers go to the shelters in person to find missing cats. Determine from shelter staff how you can claim your cats.
• Don't panic if the cats aren’t waiting when you get back. Cats can hide for days after severe weather before returning to their colonies.

Emergency Supply Kits

Alley Cat Allies encourages pet owners to have a basic disaster supply kit ready at all times. The following items should be kept in an easily accessible and easy-to-carry backpack or duffel bag in case you need to evacuate quickly. Disaster kit basics for pets include:

• Pet first-aid kit
• Supply of prescription medications for pets. Always remember to rotate these out of your kit and keep track of expiration dates so you are not carrying around useless or bad medication.
• Veterinary and microchip ID records for both pet cats and colonies
• Pet food (3-7 days worth; be sure to rotate these out of your kit as needed) and dishes (collapsible are good)
• Litter box and litter
• Leash and collar
• Crate or carrier; pillow case other item in case you need to quickly grab your pet to leave.
• Blankets or towels
• Photos of pets and cats in colonies in case they need to be identified
• Bottled water (7 day supply per person and pet)
• Your kit for the people in your family, which should include: flashlight and extra batteries; credit card and cash; copies of personal identification; a portable, solar- or battery-powered radio or television and extra batteries; an extra set of car keys; matches in a waterproof container; duct tape; extra clothing and shoes; extra medication and copies of insurance information; permanent marker; and an all-in-one tool like a Swiss army knife or Leatherman®.

Helping Others

If you plan on responding to a disaster as a volunteer, we recommend transporting the following items that are always in demand during emergency animal rescue:

• Bottled water
• Dry and canned pet food and can openers
• Dog crates and carriers
• Humane cat traps
• Old towels, sheets, and blankets
• Leashes and collars
• Litter boxes
• Heavy gloves and protective clothing
• Lanterns and flashlights with batteries
• Portable generators
• Medical supplies:
• bandages
• sterile gauze pads
• absorbent dressing
• antiseptic
• flea and tick repellants
• instant cold packs
• latex gloves

We hope these tips help you, your family, and your cats stay safe in emergencies.

Thank you to Alley Cat Allies for this informative article.